I'm a long time 4x5 shooter and am entirely comfortable with lens movements. You can do quite a bit in software, but only so much. I haven't sent mine in to have shift put on the same axis as I don't see that I need it. I don't think that matters if you are mostlly doing architecture. As shipped, shift is on one axis and tilt on another. Tilt and shift come on different axis from the factory-you can't combine them at will as you can the Canon. Not sure why they're saying you can't tilt and shift on a D800 as mine is fine doing either. It's a great lens and is currently my favorite. I ended up buying a used 24mm PC -E for somewhere around $1,200. There is the Samyang "family" of 24mm tilt/shift, but from everything I've read they just aren't that sharp when shifted. For use on a D300, you would almost certainly want a 24mm PC-E, as the 28mm lens would become something like 42mm, not nearly wide enough most of the time. There is no clearance problem for the D300 or D800E. Neither the 24mm or 28mm works real well for architecture on D7000 because for that you use shift, mostly (lens is slid upwards.) The problem with the D7000 is there isn't near enough clearance under the flash housing for the lens to slide up. (Most of this is for sale, !) Here's the straight scoop. I have a Nikon 24mm PC-E, Nikon 28mm PC, D300, D7100, and D800E. That's a child's play compared to what you can do in Photoshop. That's a child's play compared to what you can do in Free Transform, for example, inside Photoshop. What do you actually want to do with them? Some effects cannot be achieved in post processing, some can. What cameras or lenses you use won't matter at all because you won't give up the control to those auto lens corrections stuff. But for other stuff, such as DOF control, you've got to use Photoshop or GIMP. If it's just minor perspective/distortion corrections, you can try Capture One Pro 8 since its keystone tool is really handy. I'll be using either my D300 or D7000, if that helps at all. I don't think Lightroom has tools, such as vanishing point, free transform, and so on. 1) If you have an 800, there is a problem with the lens and built in flashĢ) It was a slight problem with my 700's to.ģ) Don't know about the 810, but it may be just the same problem as the 800.Ĥ) get yourself the Hoodman so you can live focus - because you'll need too. You may want to get the large knobs - I did and loved 'em.Ī few caveats. If you want both T&S at the same time, you need to send them to Nikon for the upgrade (about $100). I had all 3 of the PC/E's and they are serious glass. Photoshop can fix lots of things fast, such as perspective and distortion corrections among the other things that called for T/S in the film age. However, you don't have to get it right on to a single frame in the digital age. T/S was much serious tool in the film days because you needed to get it right in camera. The only annoying thing is that the tilt and shift axes are at ninety degrees to each other and fixed. Good used examples will retain value if looked after. The Nikon TS lenses are well made with excellent optics. I think only the 85mm TS had a non electronic aperture. Fairly recently Nikon introduced tilt and shift lenses, first with a manual shut down lever, then later on with an electronic one which is far more convenient. Are they the same or different lenses? Help but be gentle.įrom recollection the older PC lenses were shift only. Some of the models are listed as tilt and some as "pc". They all appear to be manual focus, so is a used 24 or 35 going to be much different from a newer model? What to stay away from? What is essential to my photography? New- extremely expensive? 3rd party- I have not knowledge of brands and what to look for? Used- what to look for ? Looking for advice on buying a tilt shift. Noticed that the buildings need some help with the tilting.
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